In order for the pear to grow correctly and give high yields, its branches must be cut in time. We will find out what types of pruning exist, how to form a crown, and how to care for a pear after this agrotechnical event.
Best time to prune pears
Gardeners with extensive experience in growing fruit trees are advised to prune in early spring. In this case, the pear is allowed to be cut twice a year - in early spring and autumn.
In the spring, they not only form a crown, but also remove branches damaged by cold. In the pre-winter period, it is also allowed to thin out and rejuvenate the pear. But it is recommended to do this only with winter-hardy varieties, since pruning significantly weakens the tree, reduces its frost resistance.
Also in the autumn period, the defenses of the pear fall, but fungal spores begin to spread actively. Therefore, pruning a pear is risky. But a coin always has two sides.
Pros of autumn pruning:
- more predictable weather conditions (in spring it is easy to be late or, on the contrary, prune a tree too early);
- after a strong pruning in the spring (if it was required to be done), the yield of the pear decreases, but not in the autumn;
- the tree is easier to repair, since the plant does not need to bifurcate the strength of the healing of wounds and the formation of fruits.
Timing
In order for the removal of branches to benefit the tree, it is necessary to calculate the favorable period for this procedure. If you are late or hurry with pruning, you can cause serious damage to the tree, provoke its illness and even death.
When trimming a pear is recommended:
- In the spring. Pruning is done before juices flow through the branches of the tree. It is desirable that there is only a few days between the procedure and sap flow. When it begins, the tree will immediately turn on immunity, which impedes the development of pathogenic organisms.
- Autumn. The main signal to start the procedure is falling leaves. Another condition is positive air temperature. If the thermometer drops below minus 5 ° C, trimming is no longer carried out.
There are no exact calendar dates for trimming. In addition, they depend on the region and current weather conditions. So in a temperate climate, autumn pruning is completed before the second decade of October, in spring, work begins at the end of March.
What is pruning?
Pear pruning is carried out taking into account the age of the tree, as well as the goals. Depending on this, several types of trimming are distinguished:
- Sanitary. Circumcision of dried, damaged, with signs of disease and frozen branches. Recommended lead time is any.
- Thinning. Since the pear is characterized by intensive shoot formation, the extra ones are removed so that there is normal air circulation in the crown. The branches growing inside the crown, spinning tops, as well as crossing shoots are cut off.
- Formative. The crown is formed in the first years of the life of a tree. This has a positive effect on its longevity and fruiting.
- Stimulating. Its essence is to shorten the shoots. The goal is to limit the growth of branches. The result is stimulation of lateral shoot growth.
- Anti-aging. Extends the fruiting of the tree and increases productivity.
General pear pruning rules by season
Depending on what time the pruning is carried out, certain rules are followed. In addition, a specific type of pruning is recommended for each season.
Spring
Until the kidneys are swollen and sap flow begins, proceed to pruning. Regardless of what type of pruning will be carried out and how old the tree is, certain rules must be followed. This will not harm the pear tree and get a positive effect from the procedure.
Cut thin branches with a sharpened pruner, and thick ones with a hacksaw. All blades should be disinfected. Use alcohol-containing compounds for disinfection.
When cropping, follow these rules:
- Begin by decimating the crown so that light and air enter all fruit-bearing branches.
- After thinning, if necessary, shorten the central trunk by 1/4 to form a cup-shaped crown.
- Disinfect the sections.
- Remove vertically growing shoots and downward branches - they are unproductive.
See also the video on pruning pears in spring:
Fall
Autumn pruning is recommended for early and mid-season pears.
Autumn pruning rules:
- Prune the pear in moderation in autumn, otherwise the tree will spend too much energy on recovery, and before wintering it is completely unnecessary. In addition, the tree will have many vertical shoots.
- It is recommended to remove branches in stages - a little each year.
- Start pruning with shoots that have grown at a 90-degree angle to the trunk. Then move on to those that grow vertically.
- Disinfect the sections after work.
When pruning branches, focus on the ring beads on the bark - they are between the trunk and the base of the branches. Cut directly by the influx, then the wound will heal quickly, since it contains tissues that accelerate recovery.
Summer
In summer, they only pinch the pear. This procedure is also called pinching. You can remove the tops of the shoots with your fingers or a cutting tool.
Tweezing takes much more time than pruning, but you should not abandon it. After pinching, the tree actively accumulates strength, as it uses nutrients more economically and more evenly.
In summer, you can prune the pear if it has grown many young shoots that thicken the crown. The reaction of the tree may depend on the timing of the pruning:
- June. Delays the growth of shoots. Because of this, the axillary buds release summer shoots ahead of time. Leaf buds are transformed into fruit buds. The June pinch has a bad effect on the vegetation of the tree and complicates its wintering.
- July August. At this time, the shoots finish their growth. Pinching enhances the development of axillary kidneys.
How to cut a pear in the summer is described in the video below:
Cropping based on age and other factors
The pear is pruned annually, in accordance with age and other characteristics. There is no single pruning scheme for all occasions - you need an individual approach to each tree.
After landing
The pear is characterized by a large annual growth and a small bookmark of skeletal branches. Basically, small branches-ringlets and short spears are formed. Another feature of the pear is the accelerated growth of the central conductor. It must be transferred to the lower buds, otherwise the pear will grow too high.
As a rule, nurseries sell two-year-old seedlings, consisting of a conductor and 5-6 side branches. Therefore, from the first year of life of a young tree, begin the forming pruning of its crown:
- Shorten the trunk 50-60 cm from the soil level to activate the growth of side branches.
- Shorten the side branches above the kidneys by 10-15 cm.
- Pinch off the buds located near the ground so that the seedling does not waste energy on growing the lower shoots. In addition, then these shoots still have to be removed.
Pruning the seedling makes it easier for the tree to take root. Its roots are still very weak, and if the buds begin to actively develop, they will not be able to provide the young pear with the necessary nutrition.
If the seedling is planted and pruned in the spring, pruning is not required in the fall.
Two-year-old pear
In the 2nd year, they continue to form a crown. A two-year-old tree has side branches, three shoots must be selected, the rest must be cut off.
Rules for pruning a two-year-old tree:
- Get branches evenly around the trunk.
- The optimum angle between the trunk and branches is 120 degrees.
- The vertical spaces between the branches are from 10 to 22 cm.
- Having selected the necessary branches, cut off all the others:
- cut branches that are lower than the lowest selected branch;
- branches that will be skeletal on the 1st tier, cut into a third;
- Shorten the central trunk so that from the ground to the farthest branch of the 1st tier there are 80-90 cm.
Three-year
A three-year-old pear is pruned in almost the same way as a two-year-old tree. They continue to form the crown.
Pruning a 3-year-old pear:
- Your task is to organize the 2nd tier. There should be about 70 cm between the first and second tier.
- For the 2nd tier, select 3 branches growing at a large angle from the trunk. Shorten them by a third. Cut the branches of the 1st tier by the same amount.
- Cut the main conductor by stepping 40-50 cm from the location of the farthest branch in the second tier.
- Cut all other branches growing from the trunk. Remove unnecessary, competing shoots on them so that there is only one - the leading one.
Four-year-old pear
In the fourth year of the tree's life, a similar laying of the third tier is made. Only now the distance between the 2nd and 3rd tier is about 40-50 cm.
It will be enough two branches directed in different directions, all the extra ones are cut out. Shorten the trunk in order to transfer growth to the lateral branch.
Five-year
By the fifth year, gardeners have finished forming the crown. If the pruning was carried out for 4 years without errors, the pear should be about 4 m high and three tiers.
Adult pears
A tree that is over 5-6 years old should be pruned preferably in spring. And we must start with sanitary pruning. The further procedure for pruning an adult pear is as follows:
- Clean the barrel. After sanitary pruning, proceed to barrel cleaning. It consists in removing numerous shoots growing from the central trunk.
- Remove competitors. Oftentimes, the pear grows competing shoots parallel to the trunk. Trim them. The tree should have only one leading trunk.
- Limit upward growth. A feature of pear trees is the desire to grow upward throughout the entire period of life. The branches on the upper tier that stretch upward must be cut off.
- Lighten the crown. Remove all branches growing vertically up, down, and crisscross. Another task when lightening is trimming tops. Shorten the annual growth by three buds.
Old
For old pears, rejuvenation will be beneficial. It is not carried out in a year or two - it takes several years to properly, without prejudice to the health of the tree, rejuvenate it. When an old skeletal branch is removed, a new one is grown in its place to replace it.
The maximum proportion of branches removed at a time is 1/3 of the total mass.
Trees in a state of neglect may also need rejuvenation. With an abundance of green mass, they produce few fruits. Bringing old trees back to life is difficult, but possible. To prevent the tree from being damaged by the stress caused by heavy pruning, it is carried out 3 times at intervals of 1-2 years.
How to rejuvenate an old pear:
- Form two tiers on the tree. Leave a distance of 1 m between them. Where the uppermost branch leaves, cut the trunk.
- On one tier, leave 5 to 7 strong branches. Cut the rest off the trunk.
- Clean each skeletal branch from excess shoots, cut tops, criss-cross branches. Cut off all the growth from the trunk.
To rejuvenate an old tree, gardeners often simply cut it in half or 1 m above the ground. Next year, a new tree with a regular or cupped crown begins to form from the grown shoots.
Columnar pear
Colon-shaped pear pruning is carried out mainly for decorative purposes. Only the side branches are shortened to keep the tree compact. The trunk is not touched.
To maintain columnar pears in a normal state, an annual sanitary pruning is sufficient, during which broken and dried branches in the inner space of the crown are removed.
Karlikova
Such pears are especially often grown in harsh climates. They are closed for the winter to protect against frost.
How to form a dwarf pear:
- Immediately after planting, cut the tree at a height of 40-50 cm from the soil.
- In the 2nd year, cut the side branches (usually 4-5) by a third.
- Trim the barrel by 15-20 cm.
In subsequent years, shorten the growth by a third. The height of a dwarf pear should be 1.5-2 m.
Big pear
A tree that is too tall and spreading can create big problems on the site. If it is higher than 3 m, then caring for it is complicated.
The height of the overgrown pear must be reduced by 1.5-2 m. Then all dry and old branches are removed. Further actions depend on how old the tree is and in what condition it is.
Crown formation
It is held over several seasons. The pruning scheme depends on which crown shape will be chosen.
People with extensive experience in gardening assure that the most practical crown shapes for pears are cup-shaped and spindle-shaped.
Sparse tiered form
This is the easiest option. The tree takes on the most natural form. The branches are arranged in tiers of 2-3 branches.
How to form a sparse-tier crown:
- Select the section of the trunk that will be the trunk - about 50 cm.
- Measure 40 cm from the stem - there will be skeletal branches of the 1st tier. And the center conductor is cut off. Cut it off over a strong kidney - it will give rise to an escape, from which the extension of the trunk will grow.
- The main branch should be 20 cm higher than the lateral ones.
- After a year, clean the stump from the shoots. And start forming tiers according to the above described scheme.
- Build one tier each year. On the first, leave 3 branches, cut the rest to slow down their growth and increase productivity.
Improved tiered
This is an improved version of the previous crown formation scheme, in which additional skeletal branches are left. So, in the first tier, instead of 3 branches, 4 are left, and for laying the 2nd tier, about 6 buds are left.
Recommended scheme:
- on the first tier - 4 branches;
- on the next - 2-3 branches;
- there is no third tier, instead there are 2 separate branches.
Fusiform crown shape
This scheme is loved by professional gardeners. Pears with a fusiform crown bear fruit earlier, have a high yield, are distinguished by good ventilation and illumination of the fruit branches.
The main feature of the scheme is a lot of semi-skeletal branches. They are tied up so that they are in a horizontal position. Then the branches are arranged in a spiral, at intervals of 2-3 buds.
The disadvantage of the scheme is the sagging of the lower branches, which makes it difficult to care for the trunk circle and trunk.
Cup-shaped
The second name of the crown is vase-like. The scheme provides for pruning without selecting leading branches (skeletal branches are arranged in one tier). The conductor is cut off in the first year of landing, and 3-4 branches are left to form a skeleton.
Half-flat form
This option is good for mini plots. The peculiarity is the presence of 4-6 branches placed at an angle of 50 ° relative to the stem. In the bottom row there are two branches growing in a mirror-like position.
In the second and subsequent tiers, only 2 branches are left. If the tree is vigorous, the ideal distance between the tiers is 1 m, if the tree is medium-sized, 0.8 m.
General questions about pruning pears
Pruning is considered the most difficult and responsible event when growing fruit trees. Beginners often come to a standstill, deciding to cut trees on their own. Consider the points that may cause questions from inexperienced gardeners:
- Can the crown of the pear be trimmed? The central guide is cut only on a young seedling and only once a year, otherwise the tree will be too tall.
- Do I need to trim the tops? These are the competitors of the leaders, subject to ruthless cutting. They do not bear fruit and only thicken the space.
But there are times when tops are used to form a full-fledged fruiting shoot.To do this, the shoots are transferred to a horizontal position, cutting off to the outer bud or bending back with a rope. - Trimming to a knot of substitution: what do they do and how? This pruning method allows you to form a fruit link, which consists of one or more fruit branches, and a knot of substitution. This is usually done not earlier than the 4th year of life.
The essence of the process: pruning shoots with flower buds for fruiting. Remove 1/3 or 1/4 of the length. All others are left to grow, keeping 2-3 buds. - How is pruning a frozen pear? Trimming is carried out taking into account the damage received. If the crown of an annual tree planted with canopy has suffered, it must be shortened by a third of the length. But such a procedure is shown to all young trees that have survived the winter.
In adult trees, after wintering, branches are removed (completely or before healthy wood), depending on the degree of damage. Affected areas can be easily identified by dark color (in places of freezing, the bark becomes black or dark brown). - How to cut a thick branch? Removal is carried out in stages. This approach is convenient for the gardener and does not injure the pear. When doing such pruning, it is important not to harm the tree; external attractiveness must be neglected.
It is necessary to wait for the sleeping buds to wake up so that new shoots appear. When the "stump" is a little overgrown with branches, it will be possible to start forming the crown.
Features of pruning pears in various regions, including Siberia
In areas with a harsh climate, especially in the Ural and Siberian regions, pear pruning is used, in which a bush is formed. It is easier to cover such a tree from frost for the winter. Its stem is only 10-15 cm (but not more than 30 cm), and the placement of skeletal branches is arbitrary.
Forming the crown of a young tree, the skeletal branches are moderately cut and the semi-skeletal ones are thinned. In the 5th year, the central conductor is cut at the level of the upper branches. The height of the bush is 2-2.5 m. This is quite enough for normal growth and fruiting.
In areas with cold winters, the stlan form of the crown is practiced:
- Planting of seedlings is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees. Their tops should "look" to the south.
- In three years, a tree with 2-4 skeletal branches is formed. Their length is about 1 m. Then a pair of vertically arranged shoots are left on each branch, and all the others are removed.
A different approach to pruning is observed in regions with a warm climate. For example, in the Crimea, where the climate is especially favorable for fruit trees. Here pears can be cut almost all year round, and there is practically no freezing or it happens very rarely.
How to care for pears after pruning?
Pear trees generally tolerate pruning well. Especially if the gardener did not neglect the rules described above and disinfected the tool and sections. It is important that during the event no infection gets on the open sections.
After trimming, even insignificant, the tree weakens, since it has to spend energy on restoration, because it is necessary to tighten the wounds caused by saws and hacksaws. During this period, timely watering and good nutrition are especially important for him.
How to care for a pear after pruning:
- Processing slices. So that an infection does not get into open wounds, they are covered with a protective compound. According to gardeners, natural oil paint with drying oil is the best way to put cuts on pears. Special garden paste is also considered a good remedy.
Large sections (more than 1 cm in diameter) must be processed. Small wounds usually heal easily and quickly, without any consequences for the tree. - Watering... The tree is watered at least 3 times per season. Before buds bloom, after flowering and after harvest. The watering rate is from 5 to 20 buckets, depending on the age of the tree.
- Top dressing. During the season, the tree is fertilized 5 times:
- Before flowering. Add 30 g of ammonium nitrate or the same amount of urea. It is simply scattered around the trunk circle and embedded in the soil with a rake.
- At the beginning of flowering. Watered with urea. Make a solution - 100 g per bucket of water.
- After the inflorescences fall. A solution of nitroammophoska is introduced - 50 g per 10 liters of water.
- Before fruit ripening. Foliar feeding is carried out in June. The tree is sprayed with a solution of potassium sulfate - 5 g per 1 liter of water. In July, the pear is sprayed again, but this time with magnesium sulfate - 100 g per 5 liters of water.
- After harvesting. In the soil before winter make wood ash - 200 g per 1 square. m.
Pear pruning is an obligatory agrotechnical measure, without which one cannot count on high yields. Due to the correct formation of the crown, the tree becomes convenient for harvesting, does not freeze, looks beautiful and well-groomed.
Author of the publication
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Russia. City Novosibirsk
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